Pastillas de Ube/Durian

Pastillas de Ube/Durian

Pastillas de Leche if directly translated from Spanish means “milk tablets” or “milk pills” which basically describes this Filipino sweet delicacy. This is made from evaporated milk with some mixtures to make it like a dough. The dough will be formed into a small shape and be coated with sugar.

Essentially flavored pastillas de leche, these are made with the addition of purple yam paste (ube halaya) and jackfruit. While the flavor of ube is lovely, I'm always more enamored of the deep violet hue it gives to food, while langka has such a delicious mango-pineapple taste that I can't resist.

Philippine milk-based confectionery. For the Arabo-Andalusian meat pie, see pastilla.
Not to be confused with pastila.

Pastillas or Pastillas de Leche is a milk-based confectionery with origins in the town of San Miguel in Bulacan, Philippines. From San Miguel, pastillas-making spread to other Philippine regions such as the provinces of Cagayan and Masbate.

Initially, pastillas de leche were primarily home-made by carabao-rearing farmers. A small-scale industry on the food product soon grew, with the pastillas made from either carabao or cow milk or both. Refined sugar and calamondin juice are also added during the pastillas-making process.


In San Miguel, Bulacan, a Pastillas Festival has been celebrated every May since 2006. The paper-cut form of the pabalat is also linked to the festival, involving making elaborate paper-cut designs using these wrappers.

Ask a Filipino to name his or her favourite native sweet and chances are that many will pick pastillas de leche. Made from a simple mixture of sugar and milk (preferably carabao, or water buffalo) boiled down to a thickened paste and rolled in more sugar, pastillas are practically synonymous with pasalubong - a special gift or souvenir, usually representative of indigenous Filipino culture and often a food item. Although it bears a strong similarity to dulce de leche and caramel candies in base ingredients and cooking technique, a pastilla de leche is neither as smoothly viscous as the former nor as chewy as the latter. Instead, variations can have consistencies ranging from soft cookie dough to the granular firmness of maple sugar candy. But is this sufficient difference to make pastillas de leche a uniquely Filipino sweet?


The history and origins of pastillas de leche are somewhat murky. Many references I found online categorize this confection as a native adaptation of a Spanish food, but it seems more of an assumption based on the Spanish name than on actual provenance. I could not find a similar candy bearing the same label in any Hispanic-based cuisines, other than 'pastillas de leche de burra', or donkey's milk tablet. Though it sounds promising as a possible precursor to Pinoy pastillas, what little information is available describes a hard candy that first appeared in Spanish pharmacies between the late 19th and early 20th centuries, and was marketed as a nutritional supplement and cough drop for children. In contrast, Filipinos may have been making pastillas de leche well before this period and descriptions do not mention any palliative purpose, other than as a cure for homesickness.

Perhaps the name is only a borrowed tag, to give a simple native sweet a bit of colonial cachet, as theorized by Jaime Veneracion in his paper "The 'Hispanization' of the Filipino":
"But because [Spanish dishes] came as the food of the colonizer, they entered at the level of domination. To the Filipinos, these thus symbolized status or 'class' that may only be consumed during special occasions such as fiestas and anniversaries... In some instances, when the Chinese and other Filipinos wanted to create the impression of being exotic, Spanish names had been given to what appeared as common dishes.

While it's possible that pastillas de leche were so named to give it a more sosyal (elite) connotation, the more likely explanation is rather benign. One need only think back to the etymology of pastilla, then look at the Filipino sweet's traditional shape: an inch-long piece of confection rolled into a small, sugar-covered loaf... Still, why a Spanish name and not a native one? Though the candy recipe itself does not appear to have a direct Spanish antecedent, it is rooted in Spanish colonial influence.

Nearly everyone agrees that pastillas de leche originated in the province of Bulacan, located north of Manila. This proximity to the seat of colonial rule in the Philippines made it an important source for the city's supply of various goods, which were produced on large estates owned by Spanish Catholic friars. The province was also home to many of a class of Filipino intellectuals called Ilustrados, who were expected to be educated in Spain and speak fluent Español in order to claim this social status⁴. Given that it was essentially a lingua franca of Bulacan, it is really no surprise that a Spanish name would be bestowed on a food created there.

Speaking of names, a tangent to the story of pastillas de leche is worth sharing. By all accounts, this candy originated specifically in the town of San Miguel de Mayumo, which translates to 'Saint Michael of Sweets' mayumo means 'sweet' in the Kapampangan language). This heavenly moniker is quite fitting for a place that is known as a confectionary capital, but it's not quite what you think. The original name was actually Miguel Mayumo, after its founders Miguel Pineda and Mariano Puno; the latter's famously kind disposition apparently inspired the 'sweet' part. Fast forward a few years after the town's founding in 1763, when a resident discovered a natural stone figure resembling St. Michael the Archangel in a nearby cave. Taking it as a miraculous sign from God, the citizens decided to add 'saint' to their town's name in proper tribute. Thusly did San Miguel de Mayumo come to life and be occasionally, if erroneously, declared the 'patron saint' of sweets. Sadly, despite this colourful story, the town is known today simply as San Miguel.

As for the confection itself, the only thing religious about it is the devotion shown by many Filipinos for its sweet taste. Pastillas de leche production is thought to be as old as the town of San Miguel and today, Bulacan remains the centre of pastillas-making, with as many as 200 producers province-wide. Most of them are home-based businesses - a vestige of how the candy came about as a way for local farm families to use excess carabao milk, which spoiled very easily in the days before pasteurization. The traditional recipe calls only for milk, sugar and dayap zest (native lime) to be slowly cooked in a copper pot until the mixture is reduced to a thickened paste, which is then cooled, shaped into small 'loaves', rolled in granulated sugar and wrapped in colorful cellophane or papel de hapon (tissue paper) wrappers.



Aficionados will insist that pastillas made with carabao's milk are the best tasting: richer, thanks to a higher fat content (compared to cow's or goat's milk), and more flavorful, with a salty undertone that heightens the sweetness. Nowadays, shortcuts abound with the use of sweetened condensed and powdered kinds of milk, while flavours and textures have gone beyond the soft, milky, hint-of-citrus original. As with so many foods in the Philippines, there seems to be a different variation of pastillas for every town or province. 

Unlimited flavours of Pastillas - Video
By GMA